“He sensed the strain in me, said with faint regret: ‘You know our Buddhist saying?’
Yes, I remember. From all that he loves, man must part.”
-Colin Thubron
The day dawns wrapped in mist, obscuring the hills of Chhomrong and the bigger mountains just beyond their reach. No matter: we made the push to Chhomrong not for the views, but for the coffee. Just down the stone staircase from our guesthouse lies one of Chhomrong's many coffee houses. This is real coffee, roasted on the spot, with nary a jar of instant powder in sight. Krista orders a flat white; I opt for a caramel macchiato. It’s a rare luxury for a pair of black coffee drinkers, and we enjoy the indulgence in unusually splendid surroundings. For as we sit in the chilly morning air, the clouds begin to lift, streaming away from the mountains in tattered wreaths to reveal a final, lovely look at the snowy face of Annapurna South.
As we drain our coffees and take a short stroll around the neighborhood, we discover a little shop associated with the local Tibetan refugee settlement. This is one of the few places on the ABC Trek where you're greeted with a warm tashi delek, rather than a namaste. We’re early, browsing the shop’s array of beautiful curios and jewelry while the owners are still uncovering displays and preparing for the day’s business. After buying a few odds and ends, it’s time to pack our bags and begin the final leg of our journey on the Annapurna Base Camp Trek.
With only two miles to cover, our hike has almost reached its end. And as we descend along one stone staircase after another to New Bridge and the Jeep station at Jhinu Danda, I reflect upon the miles we’ve covered over the last few days. It’s been a whirlwind adventure through some of the most beautiful Himalayan landscapes I’ve ever seen, and we’ve had the good fortune of enjoying our hike in the splendid company of Hari Gurung and Sangkhar Thapa. The crew at Nepal Hiking Team has outdone themselves once again, proving that in the right hands, Nepal’s trekking industry runs like a well-oiled machine. Before we know it, we’re piling into our vehicle and setting off on the winding road to Pokhara. While the mountains, trails, and friendly people of the Annapurnas are now behind us, it’s safe to say that they’ve found a place within our hearts.
